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Repurposed Goes Glam


These Designers Give Reclaimed A Whole New Meaning

Ever wonder how young, seemingly struggling, designers manage to put together a collection on a shoestring budget? Fabric, trims, buttons, tailoring. Its dizzying just thinking about the amount of work - and money - it takes to pull off such an endeavor. But, some of the more resourceful designers, have decided to let us in on a little secret: Thrift stores are not only great sources of inspiration, but also great resources for fabric.

And at a time where all things eco are coveted, it's an easy - not to mention inexpensive - way to green a collection. It's also an opportunity for designers to present a collection that has the cachet of a limited-edition or one-of-a-kind label, a particularly rare commodity amid the sea of Forever 21 and H&M designer knock-offs.

For instance, British designer AMIRA creates feminine tops and dresses from end-of-run, surplus, and organic cotton textiles. Typically, AMIRA can produce roughly 6-10 dresses from a given textile, giving it a "rare" quality. The creations by Tawny Holt, the designer behind Amour Sans Anguish, are even more exclusive. Each garment is constructed entirely from salvaged and recycled materials, creating items "at once both shamelessly romantic and modern," says Holt.


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Amanda Ericsson, the British designer behind a collection of dresses under the brand Dream and Awake, takes "old garments and turns them into new" in her studio in Paris. Ericsson's aesthetic is decidedly more vintage than AMIRA and Holt, but it should be. There is nothing more frustrating than hearing about how a designer has created a "vintage" collection from new fabrics. Isn't there enough vintage out there already?


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While Ericsson and Deborah Lindquist - who turns gently-worn cashmeres into retro-inspired appliquéd cardigans, hats and dog sweaters - among others, began their collections with the environment and social responsibility in mind, other designers have been more hesitant to reveal the origin of their fabrics. New York-based Doucette Duvall started out four years ago using reclaimed and end-of-run fabrics simply to save money. Yet, the design team rarely disclosed this fact out of fear of turning away buyers, says Annebet Duvall.

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Doucette Duvall does not exclusively use salvaged materials, but the brand does create a few styles each season that fall under that category. Now that green is good, Duvall says she looks forward to sourcing vintage textiles in say, Paris, and other parts of the world. Depending on the results of those buying missions, the label hopes to increase the number of looks in the collection made from salvaged materials.








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